Sunday, April 28, 2024

Five Comforting and Complex Ramen Styles to Try In Los Angeles ~ L A. TACO

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The collaboration between chefs Hiroyuki Masato, Andy Juliady, Sebastian Karyadi, and Jeffry Undiarto (the former manager of two-Michelin-starred n/naka) offers modern updates on familiar classics. If you’re craving something on the lighter side, Iki’s yuzu shio is bright and refreshing. Their soup base is flavored with house-made dashi and chicken broth. It has pork belly, menma (lacto-fermented bamboo shoots), nori, green onions, and a soft-boiled seasoned egg. Daikokuya Main Branch, born in LA's Little Tokyo in 2002, quickly became the city's top ramen hotspot. Under Takaaki's skillful management, the eatery overcame early financial struggles without resorting to renovations.

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House-made, slow-cooked Tonkotsu (pork) broth, finished with smooth Hakata Tonkotsu dashi. Thin noodles topped with kikurage mushrooms, scallions and sesame. Los Angeles has a long history of great ramen, but only in the past few years has the scene hit its stride. From rich tonkotsu (pork) to shoyu (soy sauce) and shio (salt), here now are the 15 essential ramen shops in Los Angeles. Stephanie Breijo is a reporter for the Food section and the author of its weekly news column.

Vegan Shiitake Miso-Based ~ Ramen Hood ~ Downtown Los Angeles

What’s different about Killer Noodle is its homage to the spicy, Chinese-inflected tantanmen. With sesame- and pepper-laden noodles, the ramen is served as a noodle soup or “dry” on a platter. According to Engelhart — who operates Sage with her husband, chef-owner Elias Sosa — in years past the restaurants would do $7 million in annual business.

He protested in a clown suit outside a restaurateur’s home. The owner pulled a gun on him

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This tsukemen specialist took over sister restaurant Aizen Udon, which moved to the Little Tokyo Marketplace a few blocks over. Tsukemen Aizen’s deluxe offering serves thinly shaved pork in a flower-like formation, along with a mound of thick noodles, spinach, lotus root, and boiled eggs. The star — a side bowl of fishy, umami-riddled dipping broth — coats every dipped noodle with an explosion of salty, fatty flavor. This Orange County ramen shop recently expanded to Gardena, with a stall inside the Tokyo Central Market serving tsukemen and ramen. While the disposable bowls are an unfortunate aspect of this casual outlet, the specialty of miso-based broth — either tamer white miso or more aggressive red miso — brings a rounded sweetness and deep umami flavor. Her brother, Ryland Engelhart, co-founded regenerative-farming nonprofit Kiss the Ground; Mollie Engelhart serves as director of its board.

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One of LA’s most creative ramen shops comes from Top Chef winner Ilan Hall. To make the Grand Central Market stall’s signature vegan broth, Hall takes umami-rich ingredients like konbu and shiitake mushrooms and combines it with roasted sunflower seeds and white miso. The result is a rich broth that’s as good as a traditional porky one; a vegan “egg” tops every bowl. While Engelhart said the decision is partially a financial one, the larger factor is promoting regenerative farming and more ecologically sustainable practices.

“I understand their passion and I understand their sadness and I understand their anger,” Engelhart told The Times. “I had the same views of the world that they did before I shifted my ideas based on my experience in farming, and I have compassion for what they’re feeling. I hope that the vegan community and the regenerative community can really come together because I think they’re both powerful, powerful pathways for change. Slow-cooked Tonkotsu (pork) broth, finished with a perfect blend of 11 bold ingredients. Thin noodles served with Tatsu Egg, scallions and fried onions. This tantanmen specialist on Sawtelle comes from the prolific Tsujita group, which already has two standout noodle restaurants on the block.

This focused ramen shop in Torrance serves polished bowls with a garlicky broth. Chashu pork melts in one’s mouth, while the noodles are of the thin, wheat variety common at Hakata-style shops. The chef-owner considers herself vegetarian while at home, opting to make her own yogurt, sour cream and kefir from her cows’ milk, but she is vegan when dining out as ingredient provenance and farming practices are less clear. Tokyo’s famous Afuri opened in LA after first expanding to Oregon. Sporting a yuzu-tinted seafood and chicken broth, this lighter style of ramen still packs plenty of flavor with soba-like noodles made on the premises and high-quality toppings. The cocktails and minimalist ambience makes the whole affair a pleasant experience.

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Previously, she served as the restaurants and bars editor for Time Out Los Angeles, and prior to that, the award-winning food editor of Richmond magazine in Richmond, Va. To be the finest food city in the country and might be biased on that count but doesn’t believe she’s wrong. Originally from Tokyo, Tonchin LA takes over a prime Melrose Avenue location with sleek vibes, a cocktail bar, and upscale ramen bowls.

House-made ultra rich and creamy chicken broth slow-cooked with whole ingredients. Curly noodles topped with Tatsu Egg, flash fried onions, scallions and yuzu kosho paste. Gone are the days when you could score a hearty serving of ramen for under $10, but if you want a bowl that won’t break the bank, Shin-Sen-Gumi in Little Tokyo is famous for its Hakata-style ramen. They use a pork tonkotsu broth that takes three days to prepare and a signature straight, thin noodle. I prefer my ramen on the firmer side, so I appreciate that Shin-Sen-Gumi lets you select the desired firmness of your noodles. This ramen offering from the folks behind Torihei izakaya feels very much like a neighborhood ramenya in Japan, featuring an excellent tsukemen that's full of fish funk to go along with intense porkiness.

Tsujita’s thick and delightfully chewy noodles are served chilled with warm, gravy-like broth and a lime to squeeze over the top. I could pretend that I haven’t been craving Tsujita’s tsukemen since the moment I first tasted it, but I would be lying. Known for being warm, comforting, and familiar, Westerners often oversimplify the complexity of ramen, assuming the modest noodle dish is just one thing. But even within the vast culinary landscape of Los Angeles, there are endless styles, techniques, and regional varieties of ramen available to the hungry Angeleno. From traditional Hakata-style tonkotsu to a shiitake miso-based vegan ramen, here are five different styles and regional ramen varieties to try in Los Angeles. For approximately 14 weeks, seven different ramen concepts represented a variety of regional ramen types (including Tokyo, Kumamoto, Fukushima, and Yokohama), as well as other ramen styles popular throughout the nation.

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For an even richer broth with added back fat, I took Daikokuya’s recommendation to get the kotteri. It’s not a delicate, Instagrammable bowl by any means, but that’s how you know it’s good. Established in 2018, Iki Ramen has quickly become a Koreatown institution.

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